After indulging in a weeklong whirlwind of sensory overload in the northern nooks of Vietnam, it’s almost like waking up from a hangover. Well, as they say, the third time’s the charm, and my Vietnam escapade felt more complete than my short reclusive retreat to Krabi, Thailand earlier this year in February.
With the fortuitous company of old colleagues in Singapore—DSR, KS, and SS bhai (couldn’t join)—it was high time to orchestrate a seasonal escape from the monotony that often envelops this locale. Vietnam waved, primarily for its unique blend of northern mountains and coastal charms, a combination I simply couldn’t resist. The allure of mountains seems to hold an enduring sway over my heart. Coupled with the favorable exchange rate, where 1 SGD translated to a whopping 17,770 VND (or 24k VND to 1 USD), our journey commenced as virtual Crorepatis, though this status was short-lived.
Some may argue that nine days is an extravagant sojourn, but it can be an experience compressed and transient, akin to raindrops vanishing into the vast ocean. After all, Vietnam sprawls significantly, spanning approximately 1650 kilometers from north to south.
Day 1, Sat, 05 Aug
Our voyage unfolded as we touched down at Noi Bai Airport in Hanoi, a 3.5-hour flight. Even though we were traveling further east, we turned our clocks back by an hour. Evening’s golden hues greeted us as we navigated the novelty of the right-hand driving system. Armed with our limited knowledge of this former French colony, augmented by the power of ubiquitous internet, I became the unsung tour guide. A last-minute decision saw us linger in Hanoi, eschewing a rushed journey to Sapa. Instead, we wandered the open-air markets of Old Quarter, seeking a budget-friendly sanctuary for the night. I sampled a vegetarian Banh Mi for the first time at a quaint corner, complementing the aaloo-parathas prepared by DSR in the morning.
Day 2, Sun, 06 Aug
The next leg of our adventure beckoned as we secured seats on a sleeper bus bound for Sapa, a journey commencing at the early hour of 7 AM. The staff at the Winter Boutique Hotel graciously provided us with breakfast-to-go, anticipating the demands of our day. The 5.5-hour odyssey comprised brief intermissions, the muggy weather outside was hovering at a sultry 36 degrees Celsius. Against the backdrop of smooth highways, we witnessed rural life unfolding. The landscape revealed itself, dotted with houses and individuals engrossed in daily agricultural chores, each homestead boasting a placid pond, perhaps devoted to aquaculture. One could not overlook the ruddy soil, the namesake of the Red River, the waterway guiding our northwest trajectory to Lao Cai, a mere 2 kilometers from the Chinese border. There, we veered left, embarking on a two-hour ascent to Sapa. Our path meandered along gentle curves, flanked by terraced rice fields and coniferous red pines at heights. August bestowed upon us a temperate climate, with temperatures ranging from 16 to 22 degrees Celsius, punctuated by recurrent rains. Rain became our companion throughout our stay. Upon arrival, a cab conveyed us to our frugally chosen abode, Otis Sapa Hotel. While I yearned for a leisurely stroll through the picturesque town ensconced in the mountain’s embrace, travel fatigue and my companions’ reluctance to traverse on foot compelled us to hail a taxi for the 5 minutes journey uphill.
In a land where the English language rarely surfaces, except in bustling tourist enclaves, basic communication posed surprisingly little challenge, as the locals readily embraced Google Translate as their bridge to the world.
Our double-bedroom accommodation, spacious and conspicuously devoid of ceiling fans or air conditioning, attested to the town’s perpetually cool climate. While snow seldom graces the town itself, the adjacent peaks, reaching altitudes exceeding 2500 meters, enjoy an annual sleet. Fansipan, towering at 3147 meters, the zenith of Indochina, surveys the town of Sapa from its lofty perch. We secured round-trip tickets for the cable car excursion scheduled for the following day, priced at 800k dongs per person. This ascent often requires an overnight stay for the average traveler or a long day hike for experienced hikers.
The culmination of the day unfolded with a sumptuous meal at Ganesh restaurant, our newfound haven for North Indian vegetarian fare—a culinary haven that would continue to summon us throughout our three-day sojourn in Sapa.
Day 3, Mon, 07 Aug
The dawn of a new day saw us embarking on a taxi ride to the cable car station, armed with improved bargaining tactics. The gondola ride, spanning approximately 1410 meters in elevation, unfolded before us, a 20-minute ascent to Fansipan. It boasts the distinction of being the world’s longest non-stop three-rope cable car, traversing a staggering 6.3 kilometers. The panorama unfurled—villages, rice fields, gorges, dense tropical highland rainforests, and countless rivulets and waterfalls, their number augmented by the incessant rains—lay spread before us in all its grandeur, veiled only by the enigmatic shroud of pervasive fog. A hushed ambiance enveloped the day, our trio was the sole occupants of the capacious gondola both ways. Ascending a series of stairs, the final 200-meter elevation gain in a constant, gentle downpour, carried an ethereal quality. The premises perched up on Fansipan, a Buddhist sanctuary replete with statues and temples, resonated with harmonious melodies that hung in the air. On our descent, a visit to Ganesh’s, our culinary sanctuary, was customary, followed by a tranquil evening’s respite, as the persistent drizzle outside lulled us into a contented slumber. Later, an evening saunter ensued, a venture into the exquisitely adorned local market. DSR couldn’t help but engage in jovial bargaining with the seller at Sun Plaza, using whatever little vocab we shared. Outside, we bore witness to a vivacious traditional Hmong dance, executed by a troupe of local kids. DSR and KS, ever adventurous, briefly joined the performance, their spirits dancing in harmony with the rhythmic beats of the evening.
Day 4, Tue, 08 Aug
The attraction of the day was the Rong May Glass Bridge, a relatively recent addition to the local landscape, inaugurated shortly before the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2019. Undeterred by the persistent downpour and the mist that enshrouded our surroundings, we ventured to the site. As we approached the final dramatic turn near the Lonely Tree (@ 1950 meters), a breathtaking vista of waterfalls and a jaw-dropping 300-meter-tall reinforced structure clinging to the precipice of O Quy Ho mountain unfurled before us. It was 500k VND each for passage to the bridge, facilitated by a shuttle van and a towering elevator. Though any slight hint of acrophobia soon disappears, it can become treacherously slippery on the glass surface in rain. We witnessed a thickset young man slip and slide down the glass stairs, which made KS hesitant to continue further up. Donning a conspicuously yellow poncho—the color as bold as Pikachu—I along with DSR, ventured further across and up the mountain ledge with caution to explore other vantage points.
Earlier today, we checked out of our hotel, anticipating our 9:30 PM departure on the celebrated train from Lao Cai, scheduled to reach Hanoi the next morning. While hiking around town proved elusive, I did manage to take a brief jaunt to the nearby Cat-Cat village. The weather cleared, offering me a chance to appreciate the beauty of the surrounding rice fields and traditional houses snuggling in the mountains while riding pillion on a local solicitor’s motorbike. Opting not to venture inside the village itself, which required a separate entrance fee, I had an eyeful of the unshrouded vista on my back to the hotel.
Later in the day, we boarded a tourist taxi at Sapa Square, which navigated us down to the modest city of Lao Cai. We stashed our luggage at a restaurant close to the railway station, eager to explore the environs. Lao Cai, a tranquil yet burgeoning town and province nestled along both banks of the Red River, poised at the border with China’s Yunnan province, serves as the administrative region for Sapa and Fansipan. It functioned as a historic pivotal trading post, a critical juncture in centuries of commerce. It’s been an extensive walk in slippers all day, with my companions growing visibly weary and exasperated crossing the bridge leading back to the railway station. However, the nocturnal view of the mighty Red River, which drains hundreds of rivers upstream, provided a fitting counterpoint to whatever little physical exhaustion I had.
Following dinner at the restaurant and the retrieval of our luggage, we entered the small station, where our train awaited. Our air-conditioned cabin, furnished with four sleeper berths, offered us the promise of repose. I drifted into slumber, my thoughts dancing on the contours of life’s many experiences.
Day 5, Wed, 09 Aug
As we arrived in Hanoi during the early hours of the morning, we happened to take a public taxi to Ha Long. It proved to be a four-hour long circuitous and prolonged ride. The sun, an ever-watchful sentinel, cast its radiant glow upon us as we finally arrived in the picturesque Ha Long City.
Our haven for the night was the Halong Fancy Hostel, a melting pot of budget-conscious travelers from around the globe, offering not only comfortable accommodations but also a culinary journey through an array of cuisines, particularly the delectable Banh Mi, which became our daily ritual. It was probably because of the comfortable stay here that we spent the next 2 nights here.
A pause in the whirlwind of existence, we let the evening embrace us on nearby Bai Chay Beach, where open-air clubs danced to the rhythms of revelry. We returned through the night market selling souvenirs.
Day 6, Thu, 10 Aug
On a day trip on the deck of a mid-range cruise, a tableau of limestone monoliths and islets dotted the emerald waters of this UNESCO World Heritage site. A perfect display of karst topography can be seen in Sung Sot cave, a narrow opening but the caverns inside have about 12,000 square meters of area in total. Stalagmites of calcium carbonate hung like frozen icicles, an atmosphere suited for an Indiana Jones movie.
Though water activities here may pale beside Thailand’s Phang Nga Bay, Ha Long Bay’s conservation efforts stood tall. Speedboats gave way to a slow cruise. Amidst the island-hopping, a hurried kayak adventure revealed a narrow portal to a crowded lagoon, accompanied by a fellow traveler Jose from Spain. Cat Ba Archipelago remained an uncharted tale for another day.
As night descended, the city’s iconic landmarks the Cau Bai Bridge, Sun Wheel, and Cable Car shimmered in a dazzling display. Of note, the Queen Cable Car boasts an impressive capacity, accommodating up to 230 passengers in each cabin.
Day 7, Fri, 11 Aug
Our plans to explore the city on bikes fell through since only one of us knew how to ride. It’s a bit disappointing that I never learned to ride a motorbike. Went again for a leisurely stroll to Bai Chay beach in the cloudy afternoon. The night market on the way and the restaurants on top can resemble a ghost town on non-peak hours of weekdays. However, the small and crowded Ti Top beach from the previous day left me in the lurch, so I decided to indulge in a refreshing two-hour swim at the open beach. The night market typically opens at 6 in the evening, but we had to catch a tourist bus back to Hanoi. The friendly caretaker ladies at the Fancy Hostel were a great help, assisting us with our bookings.
A mere two-and-a-half-hour bus ride returned us to the familiar Old Quarters of Hanoi. It felt more like “HaNoida,” a blend of the old and the new. We settled into the Cheering Hostel, situated right in the central area, just a street north of Hoan Kiem (Sword Lake), with its picturesque Confucian temple, Ngoc Son, resting on an islet. While our budget accommodation offered little in the way of luxury, it provided a convenient base in the midst of the city’s congested streets.
Day 8, Sat, 12 Aug
The day was dedicated to leisurely exploration and shopping in Hanoi. A savory feast at India Gate Restaurant invigorated our spirits, though our dwindling dongs called for resourcefulness. Entry to the famous Hanoi Train Street proved elusive as expected.
Dong Xuan Market, a wholesale hub, cradled our shopping desires, its vendors folding their wares as twilight descended. The day’s crescendo for me, however, arrived in the form of an 8 p.m. ticket to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre located in the central area bustling with people dancing and celebrating in high spirits. The traditional live music and cultural stories transported me to a bygone era in the Red River delta regions of northern Vietnam, where villagers once performed these water puppet shows in rice paddies after the harvest. Puppeteers skillfully maneuver colorful lacquered wooden puppets using large hidden bamboo rods, all while standing waist-deep in water hidden behind a screen. Witnessing this cultural treasure evoked both melancholy and joy. DSR is somewhere outside on his customary shopping sprint to secure some of the classy handbags.
It’s a wrap for us but a few spots in northern Vietnam like Ninh Binh and Ha Giang loop remain on the bucket list.
Day 9, Sun, 13 Aug
The day began at 4 a.m. as we hurriedly made our way to catch the first local bus, Route 17, to Noi Bai Airport. This humble bus paused at every station, regardless of whether there were any early passengers in sight. It can be as affordable as it gets, a mere 9k dongs per person, compared to the shuttle bus, Route 86, which starts later in the morning and charges 45k dongs per passenger.
As we arrived at the airport with time to spare, the impending return to the familiar grind of 9-to-6 loomed ahead, but this time, with new vigour.
कुछ न कुछ साथ अपने ये अंधा सफ़र ले जाएगा
पाँव में ज़ंजीर डालूंगा तो सर ले जाएगा
– Bani
In this blind journey, destiny weaves its thread,
With shackles on my feet, it’s my mind that will be led
ShySnail 