Sun, sand, sea, and smiles: my weekend getaway in Krabi this past week was filled with all of the best things in life. The southern shores of Thailand in Phang Nga Bay of the Andaman Sea on the map appear to be sprinkled with dozens of tiny dots of earth but in truth, are known for its pristine beaches and stunning limestone rocks protruding from the turquoise seawater, complete with cliffs, caves, and hanging stalactites besides the underwater richness of flora and fauna.
With the Covid restrictions easing and much excitement snowballing around Phi Phi Island, many are flocking to this exotic province. As the place faces ten months of tropical monsoon climate, winter is the best time to venture on an island hopping trip. Expecting a fellow traveler or two to accompany the journey at first, it was a bit of a hassle rushing alone to the Royal Thai Embassy for visa processing and scrambling the accompanying documentation — followed by obtaining the one-time entry visa shortly — just a day before my departure with Scoot airlines. The plane meanders through the tarmac which feels like an eternity at this sprawling Changi Airport of Singapore before gliding off the runway. A refreshing change welcomed me at the Krabi International Airport which felt like a quick hop-off at a flight school in comparison. There was a certain calmness and a feeling of liberation escaping from the fetters of a fast-paced metropolis even though I had just returned from a short two-week-long escapade to my hometown in Shimla two months prior which was all splurged partly in attending my college friend’s laid-back wedding ceremony and the rest in chilling at home. I may have wandered off on a tangent and should have written another post on that, but taking this as a segue, the vicinity of the bay proved to be a treasure worth all the sweat and of course, a king’s ransom. A paradise fit for love’s endeavors, the destination proved to be a unique and enriching experience for a solo traveler.
Landed at the Krabi Internation Airport on Thursday, 02 Feb, evening. No Bahts in hand, no internet on phone, no acceptance of Singapore dollars in FX counters, and not even a trace of an ATM on the premises — I was in for a treat. Fortunately, I didn’t have to go the old-school way as I hopped into the rather roomy airport van to Ao Nang, the bustling tourist hub of the city. Evenings on the beach promenade are breathtaking. Speedboats and long-tail boats (small ferries) are frequented on these waters, available for transportation or a day-long island-hopping adventure booked through one of the myriads of travel agencies lining the streets.
A journey to Hong Island in one of the traditional long-tail boats on the next day made me marvel at the wooden watercraft — the tail in fact is like a wooden plume on the front lunging forward through the wind, the stern mounted with a motor that rotates the propeller attached to the end of a long driveshaft which in turn is swung around by the captain at the back producing a constant noise only to be subdued rhythmically by the waves hitting the hull splattering the salty mist around your face — titillating you to dive into the blue ocean. Timber becoming scarce, expensive, and also against the norms, these old-school vessels are being drummed out by more powerful and spacious speedboats. The lagoons of the island are a wonderful sight, resembling delicate crystal blue wine glasses. The liquid within them undulates throughout the day as if being savored by an unseen connoisseur. The ebb and flow of the lagoon’s water create a mesmerizing dance, captivating all who behold it. While kayaking through the mouths of the lagoon where the waves and winds buffet against the body of the kayak gives you a sporadic feeling of sit-down surfing. My young guide sat at the back, and I paddled at the front which is usually offered to a newbie sightseer to enjoy an unimpeded view without worrying too much about paddling hard. I found myself transported to the scene of the classic Hindi film, Jab Jab Phool Khile, with Shahi Kapoor paddling his Shikara in Dal Lake, singing Pardesiyon Se Na Ankhiya Milana.
Baagon mein jab jab phool khilenge Tab tab yeh harjaai milenge Gujarega kaise patjhad ka zamana Pardesiyon se na ankhiyan milana - Anand Bakshi, Lyricist As soon as the flowers start blossoming in the gardens one can bump into these unfaithful ones how will autumn pass by let's not lock our eyes with foreigners
I don’t know why, but I find myself feeling nostalgic for the sweet sixties, an era that seems to have a magnetic pull of longing and a second-hand reminisce not only for me as a millennial but also for the past three generations though it’s possible some may trace their recollections wandering even further back, perhaps, in a form of colonial hangover.
The first day of the outing was filled with snorkeling, kayaking, diving, and hiking quickly to 360 Viewpoint and descending the visually-illusive steps. On returning, you can see the night markets springing up in action as soon as it’s dusky.
Saturday was committed to Phi Phi Islands and the attractions around it in a speed boat. Unlike the previous day, it was rather sunny — a good sign for shutterbugs and sunbathers. For someone who had never plunged into such deep waters, taking a swim in the open sea might seem a little daunting at first, but knowing that the boat is never too far from you to reach in a matter of a breath and the presence of a watchful boat crew makes you feel secure. Maya Bay, the filming location of “The Beach” starring Leonardo Dicaprio, is probably the most vibrant part of the tour. I lost sight of my ‘Asia Speedboat’ among the hundreds docked there every day. Luckily I caught up with them for the buffet lunch in Phi Phi Don, the largest and center island in the Phi Phi archipelago, after traveling with another party.
On the forward deck, the winds are whipping and the waves take on a new appearance — their sun-drenched marine hues shimmering in the light. In the distance, large limestone rocks jut out of the sea with the top covered with thick vegetation that resembles broccoli. The day ended up with me departing to the idyllic slow-paced Krabi town on a local bus-van, where I had pre-booked my second hotel of the trip near the beautiful Krabi river. Local food is excellent, even for an unassuming vegetarian like me with plenty of options for a savory plant-based diet. On Sunday noon, I caught my flight back to Singapore, and as I peered out the right-side window of the plane, I took a long look at nature’s marvel below. Even a brief night stay in Krabi and its peaceful, rural surroundings had a way of making me feel attached to the area. In contrast, more tourist-heavy destinations like Phuket or Ao Nang can lack that same sense of grip. It’s remarkable how someone can be an effortless globetrotter, while parting ways with a new bucolic place every now and then — ending a relationship.
ShySnail 